Cool Flowers: The Hardy Annuals I’m Sowing This August for My Best Spring Blooms (Free Zone 7 Guide)

Rachel Hess

Everyone thinks seed starting season starts in the Spring. I used to think that too. But here on our farm, some of my most important seed trays get filled in August — in the heat, in a tank top, sweating over soil blocks while the zinnias are still going strong outside.

Because the secret to tall, strong, early Spring flowers isn’t starting earlier in Spring. It’s starting in the Fall prior.

These are called Cool Flowers — hardy annuals that get planted out before winter, establish deep roots in the cool months, survive the cold under a little protection, and then explode into bloom weeks earlier (and noticeably taller) than anything Spring-sown.

This is some of what we're growing this Fall at Bits & Blooms, and I’m sharing it with you — with my real dates and my real system. No paywall, no “comment for the link” games. It’s all right here — and there’s a printable version of the guide below you can save.

Why Fall Sowing Works

Hardy annuals are flowers that actually prefer cool weather. Sown in Spring, they race against the heat and often bloom short and fast. Planted in Fall, they spend the season quietly building a root system, rest through winter as small tough plants, and wake up in early Spring with a massive head start.

The result: stems that are taller, stronger, and blooming in May — right when everyone is craving warm temps and beautiful flowers — and the Spring-sown plants are still seedlings.

Our Zone 7 Timeline

Our first fall frost here in southern New Jersey lands around November 18th. Some say earlier, but I’ve noticed over the past couple seasons that we can stretch the season through October and early November easily.

Everything works backward from that date:

Transplant out 6–8 weeks before the first frost. For us, that’s the end of September. The plants need that window to establish strong roots before the ground gets cold.

Start seeds about 4-6 weeks before transplant day. That puts our soil blocks and seed trays getting started the week of August 17th - 22nd.

So the full rhythm looks like this:

Mid-August: start seeds indoors
Late September: transplant sturdy seedlings into the beds
Late October / November: cover with low tunnels before hard frost 
Winter: leave them alone, take covers off when snow is on the forecast
April–June: earlier, taller, stronger blooms than anything you could start in Spring

If your frost date is different from ours, just run the same math: transplant 6–8 weeks before your first frost, and start seeds about 6 weeks before that transplant date.

What I’m Growing 

These are some of the cool flowers in our actual crop plan this Fall:

Snapdragons: I overwinter the early-blooming types (look for group 1–2 varieties). They transplant easily and are some of the most rewarding flowers on this list

Bachelor’s Buttons: Practically indestructible. They transplant without fuss, shrug off cold, and bloom in that true blue that almost nothing else gives you.

Orlaya: Delicate white lace flower that looks fancy but grows easy. Another well-behaved transplanter, and fall-planted orlaya makes noticeably bigger, lacier blooms.

Nigella (Love-in-a-Mist): Dreamy blue blooms and those incredible seed pods. One catch: nigella has a taproot and resents being moved. I start mine in deep cells and transplant while the seedlings are still young, before the root hits bottom.

Bupleurum: The chartreuse filler that makes every Spring bouquet look professional. Same taproot warning as nigella — deep cells, transplant young, handle gently.

Campanula (Canterbury Bells): The slowpoke of the group. Campanula needs a long runway, so it gets started earliest of everything on this list. Worth every week of patience for those bell-shaped blooms.

Iceland Poppies: Yes, you can transplant these — the trick is starting them in cells and moving them while they’re still small. They join the rest of my transplant group and reward you with those crinkled, glowing spring blooms.

Bread-seed & Shirley Poppies: The exception to my transplant system. These truly hate being moved, so they get direct sown right into the beds in Fall. Scatter the seed, press it in, and let winter do the work. Fall-sown poppies are dramatically better than spring-sown — it’s not even close.

My Seed Starting Setup

Nothing fancy required:
Clean trays or deep cell packs (deep cells for the taprooted crops — nigella, bupleurum)
Fresh seed starting mix, pre-moistened
A shady outdoor spot or indoor setup with light — August heat can cook tiny seedlings, so I keep trays out of brutal afternoon sun
Consistent moisture while they germinate
Pot up or transplant on schedule and don’t let them get rootbound — a slightly small, stocky seedling transplants better than a big leggy one.


Overwintering: The Part That Scares Everyone (But Shouldn’t)

This is where people get nervous, and honestly, it’s the easiest part.

Once the seedlings are transplanted and rooted in, we cover the beds with low tunnels (simple hoops with frost cloth) before hard freezes arrive. That’s it. The plants sit there all winter looking small and unimpressive, and that’s exactly what they’re supposed to do. The work is happening underground.

A few winter rules:
Don’t fertilize going into winter — you want tough, not tender
Vent or peek on warm sunny stretches so things don’t overheat under cover
Resist the urge to fuss. Small and slow is the whole strategy.
Come March, they take off before I’ve even started my spring trays.

The Spring Payoff

By May, these beds are the first thing blooming on the farm — snapdragons with stems worth bragging about, poppies glowing at sunrise, bachelor’s buttons and nigella in every early bouquet. It’s the single best trick I’ve learned as a flower farmer, and it costs nothing but a little faith in August.

Save the printable guide below, screenshot the timeline, and go start some seeds. Your spring self will thank you.

And if you’re deciding what else to grow, our free Cut Flower Garden Directory has 40+ varieties with sowing notes — no email required for that one either.

Happy sowing,
Rachel
Bits & Blooms Flower Farm — Franklinville, NJ


Back to blog

Leave a comment

Please note, comments need to be approved before they are published.