Cool Flowers: The Hardy Annuals I’m Sowing This August for My Best Spring Blooms (Free Zone 7 Guide)
Rachel HessEveryone thinks seed starting season starts in the Spring. I used to think that too. But here on our farm, some of my most important seed trays get filled in August — in the heat, in a tank top, sweating over soil blocks while the zinnias are still going strong outside.
Because the secret to tall, strong, early Spring flowers isn’t starting earlier in Spring. It’s starting in the Fall prior.
These are called Cool Flowers — hardy annuals that get planted out before winter, establish deep roots in the cool months, survive the cold under a little protection, and then explode into bloom weeks earlier (and noticeably taller) than anything Spring-sown.
This is some of what we're growing this Fall at Bits & Blooms, and I’m sharing it with you — with my real dates and my real system. No paywall, no “comment for the link” games. It’s all right here — and there’s a printable version of the guide below you can save.

Why Fall Sowing Works
Our Zone 7 Timeline
Transplant out 6–8 weeks before the first frost. For us, that’s the end of September. The plants need that window to establish strong roots before the ground gets cold.
If your frost date is different from ours, just run the same math: transplant 6–8 weeks before your first frost, and start seeds about 6 weeks before that transplant date.
What I’m Growing
These are some of the cool flowers in our actual crop plan this Fall:
Snapdragons: I overwinter the early-blooming types (look for group 1–2 varieties). They transplant easily and are some of the most rewarding flowers on this list
Bachelor’s Buttons: Practically indestructible. They transplant without fuss, shrug off cold, and bloom in that true blue that almost nothing else gives you.
Orlaya: Delicate white lace flower that looks fancy but grows easy. Another well-behaved transplanter, and fall-planted orlaya makes noticeably bigger, lacier blooms.
Nigella (Love-in-a-Mist): Dreamy blue blooms and those incredible seed pods. One catch: nigella has a taproot and resents being moved. I start mine in deep cells and transplant while the seedlings are still young, before the root hits bottom.
Bupleurum: The chartreuse filler that makes every Spring bouquet look professional. Same taproot warning as nigella — deep cells, transplant young, handle gently.
Campanula (Canterbury Bells): The slowpoke of the group. Campanula needs a long runway, so it gets started earliest of everything on this list. Worth every week of patience for those bell-shaped blooms.
Iceland Poppies: Yes, you can transplant these — the trick is starting them in cells and moving them while they’re still small. They join the rest of my transplant group and reward you with those crinkled, glowing spring blooms.
Bread-seed & Shirley Poppies: The exception to my transplant system. These truly hate being moved, so they get direct sown right into the beds in Fall. Scatter the seed, press it in, and let winter do the work. Fall-sown poppies are dramatically better than spring-sown — it’s not even close.
My Seed Starting Setup
Nothing fancy required:
Overwintering: The Part That Scares Everyone (But Shouldn’t)
A few winter rules:
The Spring Payoff
Save the printable guide below, screenshot the timeline, and go start some seeds. Your spring self will thank you.
And if you’re deciding what else to grow, our free Cut Flower Garden Directory has 40+ varieties with sowing notes — no email required for that one either.
Happy sowing,
Rachel